Paris - The Château de Versailles - Versailles

Plate CXIV - The Chateau of Versailles…

From the edge of the Tapis Vert (Green Carpet) looking back to the buildings, one gets a panoramic view of the front façade of the chateau. Today’s most well known aspects of the ‘palace’ are the work of teams of architects commissioned by Louis XIV (and carried out throughout his long life), namely Jules Hardouin-Mansart, Robert de Cotte and Louis le Vau. Painter Charles le Brun was responsible for many of the interiors, and the fabled classically French styled gardens, covering some 800 hectares, still largely follow the original designs of Andre le Notre. Le Notre worked closely with the architect Hardouin-Mansart, and from the start of what is called ‘the third building camapign’, begun in 1680, le Notre incorporated many of this architect’s construction features into the landscapes.

The chateau and its gardens were declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1979, and attract an estimated ten million visitors annually. You really should be one of them. I’m glad I once was. 

It was a very soaked and dishevelled, but strangely contented visitor that crossed this rain sodden gravel parterre to return to the chateau, and then on back to Paris after taking this photograph. It's appropriate then that this image should be presented as a 'watercolour'.

Paris - Grand Trianon - Versailles

Plate CVIII – Grand Trianon …

One of two chateaux named Trianon and situated in the north western section of the Versailles estates, the Grand Trianon was commissioned by Louis XIV as a residence for his mistress of the time, the later dismissed Madame de Montespan. The architect was again the King’s favourite Jules Hardouin-Mansart, and the Trianon is constructed primarily of pink marble from the Languedoc region of France.

Completed in early 1688 this chateau allowed the King to escape the rigorous formalities and etiquette of the court. The building fell into disrepair during and after the French Revolution, being partially restored and placed back into use by Napoleon during the days of the First Empire.

It is today again being used, by the President of the French Republic to entertain his many international guests.

Paris - The Hall of Mirrors - Versailles

Plate CVII – Hall of Mirrors …

I mentioned yesterday that general access to the palace does not give entry to the chapel (nor to many of the private chambers of the royals, some of which are however included in additional cost tours of the palace). The principal feature of King Louis XIV’s (third building of the) palace is without doubt the magnificent Grande Gallerie known, for its lavish use of decorative mirrors, as the Hall of Mirrors or in French as the Salle des Glaces.

An incredible light is cast by the reflective glass, created by craftsmen recruited in Venice to work in the French factories of Gobelin, effectively ending a Venetian monopoly on the manufacture of mirrors. Any question about their effect in brightening the room is dispelled by comparison with the adjoining salons devoted to War (to the north), and Peace (to the south).

At seventy-three metres in length and some ten and a half metres wide, the silver and gilt furnished hall served as a venue for embassy receptions and daily royal entertainments. Still used for state occasions of today’s fifth French Republic, perhaps the most noteworthy historical event it has seen is the signing of the Treaty of Versailles on June 28 1919, to formally end the First Great World War.

During the time I spent in the Hall of Mirrors I was yet again reminded of the variability of the stories recounted by tour guides (see yesterday’s post). One had many of the original artifacts placed in secret storage by the King and never since rediscovered, while another had them being melted by the King himself to finance his various war campaigns. The latter appears to be supported by recorded history. No matter where the truth lies, enough remains to reel the senses in this magnificent chamber.

Interestingly, I was later in my career to work with a colleague who attended an IBM corporate dinner in the Hall of Mirrors in the early 1990’s - an event he claimed to have been the first and last occasion it had been ‘rented’ for such commercial purposes.

Oh, where was I then?

Paris - The Sun King - Versailles

Plate CV – Le Roi Soleil …

The equestrian Sun King (even without much sun) continues to survey all who enter his courtyard. 

Versailles remains his enduring monument. This statue of Louis, also known as Louis Le Grand, or Le Grand Monarque dominates the forecourt of the palace. He remains the greatest symbol of the absolute power of the monarchy of the classical age. Having inherited the throne at an age of ‘not yet five’, the early years of his reign saw France ruled by his Prime Minister, the  Cardinal Mazarin, from whom Louis acquired his tastes for the arts and for grand display. On Mazarin’s death, at the age of twenty-three the young Louis astounded his court by his announcement that, in view of his divine rights, he would assume the full rule of his kingdom. Although judgements of Louis XIV remain divided by political views, none can deny he wanted a powerful, magnificent France and for his life he delivered what Voltaire called ‘an eternally memorable age.’ 

Versailles, viewed at the time of its construction as an extravagant folly, endures to this day as one of France’s greatest (and most visited) splendours.

Paris - Palace Courtyard - Versailles

Plate CIV – Palace Courtyard …

Turning from the gates to face the palace, the sky was becoming heavily clouded. Having been uncertain in which order to visit - the palace first, or the gardens - my mind was made up by this sight. I knew that European rain storms were relatively short and unlike those lasting several hours or even whole days that I knew from Africa, they’d appear, rain themselves out and then as if another season had arrived the sun would shine again. A few hours of visiting the palace interiors would give this one time to pass. Wouldn’t it?

And so it was I entered the palace doors …

The first chateau dating from the 1630’s was originally a hunting lodge built for Louis XIII, then mainly resident at Vincennes. It was however Louis XIV who decided to move the royal court from Paris to Versailles, declaring the Palace his official residence in 1682, which it was to remain until his death here in 1715. It was he who commissioned the majestic designs of both the palace and the grand gardens known today. The wonderful symmetry of the palace can be seen as you approach the main entrance.

Paris - Palace Gates - Versailles

Plate CIII – Palace Gates …

Contrasted against the mildly clouding blue skies, the gilded Palace gates assured me I was in for a Royal experience. To remind one that this was after all the one time home of the man called the Sun King, the main emblem atop the palace gates is a crowned and gilded sun - the insignia of Louis XIV.

I couldn’t help wondering if there is someone, or a firm, in Europe who maintains all these black-and-gold iron masterpieces? There certainly are a number of them in most major European cities and every one manages to be impressive.

I had no portent as I entered the gates of the storm that was about to come, nor how quickly it would gather, turn my visit into an unforgettable experience, and then clear - leaving me wondering if, but for the residual puddles, I had dreamed it all.  But then, the Palace of Versailles itself has rather the same effect.

Paris - Porte St Denis – 10me

Plate LXXX1V - Porte St Denis…

The construction of triumphal arches is, it seems, a way of life in Paris, and the Arc de Triomphe de la Porte St Denis is one of two erected by Louis XIV (the other being the Porte St Martin) to commemorate certain notable military victories, this time in the Rhine and Holland. Said to be inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus and in turn itself the inspiration for Napoleon’s more famous Arc de Triomphe at Etoile  in central Paris, Porte St Denis is located at the site of one of Charles V’s earlier gates in the destroyed city fortifications. The early 1670’s monument was designed by the renowned architect François Blondel and carved by sculptor Michel Anguier. In 1848 Porte St Denis was the site of a workers barricade and bloody conflict with the National Guard, a scene documented by the Marxist, Engels.

With a frontage almost 25 metres square, and a depth of five metres, the arch is an imposing sight on the intersection of the Boulevard and Rue St Denis. Having become somewhat neglected over time, the Porte was fully restored in 1988 (unusually, they didn’t wait for my visit) and the gilt lettered inscription 'Ludovico Magno' once again proclaims the victorious Louis’ military prowess. The last recorded ceremonial procession to pass beneath the arch is said to have been that of British Queen Victoria during her visit to the Exposition of 1855.

Paris - Eglise du Dôme Des Invalides - 7me

Plate LVI - Eglise du Dome Des Invalides…

I never realized what a presence Napoleon still has in Paris. Nor how much he continues to be revered in the city, for even today the street signs near his tomb are of a respectful, if sombre, gilt edged black. Certainly, I knew the Arc de Triomphe celebrated his victories, but I was not prepared for how the spirit of the man and of his lieutenants seems omnipresent throughout the streets of Paris.

Dominating the buildings of Les Invalides, and indeed many views across Paris is the gilded dome of the Church of Les Invalides. A chapel, known as the church of St Louis, for the (compulsory) use of hôtel residents, had been constructed as part of Les Invalides in 1679. Louis XIV then had his architect Jules Hardouin Mansart extend the church with a separate royal chapel crowned by this magnificent dome, inspired by St Peter’s basilica in Rome, but interpreted by Mansart with a uniquely French understanding.  Decorated with garlands and floral motifs, the cupola of the dome is surmounted by a lantern and a spire, rising to a height of some 100 metres above ground. Built between 1679 and 1706 many consider this the masterwork of Mansart’s career. 

The church today is the final resting place of French heroes, not surprisingly many of the Napoleonic age.

But beyond all, in a spectacular crypt beneath the massive dome internally decorated by Charles de la Fosse, and surrounded by 12 carved caryatid sentries (the Victories), in a red porphyry outer sarcophagus and six internally layered coffins, since 1840 have lain the mortal remains of Napoleon Bonaparte - the Corsican, the Little Corporal, General, First Consul and  Emperor of France.

Paris - Hôtel des Invalides - 7me

Plate LV - Hotel des Invalides, the Army Museum…

I have for some reason always associated Les Invalides with Napoleon and it is here that many relics of Napoleon’s life can be viewed, including many of his uniforms and personal arms, his deathbed and funeral mask - even the stuffed remains of one of his horses.

But, Les Invalides was first instituted by that philanthropic king, Louis XIV as a home for his disabled war veterans, and still today a part of the hôtel still serves its original purpose. It also now includes a modern military hospital.

Admittedly this is not my brightest shot; I was hurried away from my photo position by an oncoming bridal car, as a wedding procession entered the courtyard.

Many of the complex’s buildings now house displays of the Army Museum of Paris - the museum having been originally established in 1871 as one dedicated to artillerie (meaning weaponry). The collections of the, then separate, Historical Army Museum created in 1896 were merged with those of the artillerie in 1905, forming the core of today’s displayed collections - without question the richest in content in the world.

There are some half a million items in the collection and a tour of the permanent displays (allow yourself a good few hours) takes the visitor through chronological collections down the centuries.  

It is a must for boys - of all ages

Paris - Grande Louvre - 1er

Plate XI - The Grande Louvre...

The Louvre became a royal residence in Paris in the fourteenth century when Charles V converted the original fortress buildings into a royal home. Its french Renaissance appearance is attributed to Francis 1. Here the court remained until the move to the adjacent Tuileries Palace, with Louis XIV finally relocating to his new construction in Versailles.

Today the Louvre is arguably the most famous art gallery and museum in the world. It is, to be smart about it, the Louvre of art galleries. If I were to hazard a guess at the whereabouts of almost any well-known classical work of art, my first choice would default to the Louvre. Since the 1990s the courtyard area of the old palace has been undergoing a major transformation in a scheme simply known as the Grand Louvre.
One of the more controversial aspects of this transformation was the construction of the Pyramids designed by the architect I. M. Pei. Unquestionably in a modern idiom both in terms of design and materials used I believe they greatly enhance the area. In truth, all the buildings of the Grand Louvre are not a unified single construction, in a single architectural style. In that regard Pei’s Grande Pyramid (an obvious reference to the nearby Place des Pyramides celebrating Napoleon’s Egyptian victories) adds a twentieth century element to the area. I believe time will bring full acceptance to the decreasing number of critics of its placement. In the gallery below this entrance the well-known electronics giant recently opened an Apple Store. Unquestionably this is the grandest entrance to any flagship store anywhere.