Paris - The Sun King - Versailles

Plate CV – Le Roi Soleil …

The equestrian Sun King (even without much sun) continues to survey all who enter his courtyard. 

Versailles remains his enduring monument. This statue of Louis, also known as Louis Le Grand, or Le Grand Monarque dominates the forecourt of the palace. He remains the greatest symbol of the absolute power of the monarchy of the classical age. Having inherited the throne at an age of ‘not yet five’, the early years of his reign saw France ruled by his Prime Minister, the  Cardinal Mazarin, from whom Louis acquired his tastes for the arts and for grand display. On Mazarin’s death, at the age of twenty-three the young Louis astounded his court by his announcement that, in view of his divine rights, he would assume the full rule of his kingdom. Although judgements of Louis XIV remain divided by political views, none can deny he wanted a powerful, magnificent France and for his life he delivered what Voltaire called ‘an eternally memorable age.’ 

Versailles, viewed at the time of its construction as an extravagant folly, endures to this day as one of France’s greatest (and most visited) splendours.

Paris - The Panthéon - 4me

Plate XLIII - The Pantheon…

On the same day that I had climbed the 280 stairs of the Arc de Triomphe, I was again to get some more vigorous exercise on the stairs of the Panthéon. This time I did not count them but similarly, the views over Paris from the dome are a worthwhile reward.

Construction of the Jacques-Germain Soufflot designed Church of Ste Geneviève (patron Saint of Paris) began at the end of the 1750’s, replacing an older church on the site. It was built to fulfil a vow made by King Louis XV after his recovery from an illness in 1744. Deconsecrated during the Révolution it was renamed the Panthéon (from the Greek word meaning every god) and dedicated as a memorial to all great Frenchmen. The building, in the Neoclassical style, is cruciform in outline and is covered with an imposing domed roof, visible across the city.

The interior is magnificently decorated with fresco paintings and mosaics depicting scenes from French history. Externally the building is distinguished by columns surmounted by pediments housing Pierre-Jean David d'Angers statues of many post-revolutionary heroes. Twice re and deconsecrated the now state owned Panthéon is again a mausoleum and memorial to the heroes of France, many of whom are interred within the vast crypt necropolis below the former church’s nave. These include Voltaire (whose brain is said to be housed in the Comédie Française), Jean Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Louis Pasteur, Emile Zola, Louis Braille, Pierre and Marie Curie, and notably - reinterred here in 2002, 132 years after his death - Alexandre Dumas.

AUX GRANDS HOMMES LA PATRIE RECONNAISSANTE.

Paris - Comédie-Française - 1er

Plate XX– Palais Royal Gardens, Comedie Francaise…

My love of Paris (and most things French) is all Miss Cook’s fault. Miss Cook was my first French language teacher and to learn the French language she contended, one needed an appreciation also of French arts and culture. One of the characters who fired my imagination as a young student was Sarah Bernhardt - the Divine Sarah. Who could fail to be captivated by a woman who played Hamlet, was legendary for her performances as Marguérite Gautier in La Dame Aux Camélias, who continued to perform after the amputation of a leg and reputedly counted both Victor Hugo and England’s Edward VII (then Prince of Wales) among her many famous lovers. Sarah Bernhardt started her career at the Comédie-Française in 1862, although she was soon fired for slapping the face of a senior member of the company - then, due to her sheer talent, was later recalled. My kind of girl!

Of course, I couldn’t see Sarah (unless you count my visit to Père Lachaise cemetery), but I could get to the theatrical home (properly called the Salle Richelieu) of the Comédie, which is adjacent to the Palais Royal buildings. At the time of my visit the theatre (like the Opéra Garnier, the Grand Palais and even Notre Dame Cathedral) was undergoing restoration work, something the visitor to Europe soon learns to live with and appreciate*. A kindly workman did however allow me access into the lavishly decorated auditorium (who says the Parisians are unfriendly?!). Often associated with Molière, who died before the advent of the Comédie the theatre is one of three homes used by the acting troupe today constituting the Comédie-Française. It is also home to the brain of Voltaire (François-Marie Arouet).

* … I have given some thought to a book of my many photographs of European buildings under maintenance, reconstruction, renovation, cleaning or repair, to be called ‘It’ll be Nice When It’s Finshed’. The only problem is … I don’t think it ever will be!!