Paris - The Sun King - Versailles

Plate CV – Le Roi Soleil …

The equestrian Sun King (even without much sun) continues to survey all who enter his courtyard. 

Versailles remains his enduring monument. This statue of Louis, also known as Louis Le Grand, or Le Grand Monarque dominates the forecourt of the palace. He remains the greatest symbol of the absolute power of the monarchy of the classical age. Having inherited the throne at an age of ‘not yet five’, the early years of his reign saw France ruled by his Prime Minister, the  Cardinal Mazarin, from whom Louis acquired his tastes for the arts and for grand display. On Mazarin’s death, at the age of twenty-three the young Louis astounded his court by his announcement that, in view of his divine rights, he would assume the full rule of his kingdom. Although judgements of Louis XIV remain divided by political views, none can deny he wanted a powerful, magnificent France and for his life he delivered what Voltaire called ‘an eternally memorable age.’ 

Versailles, viewed at the time of its construction as an extravagant folly, endures to this day as one of France’s greatest (and most visited) splendours.

Paris - The Arc de Triomphe View 1 - 8me

Plate LXIX - Ave de la Grande Armee …

At the end of September each year France celebrates its heritage by freely opening the doors to hundreds of buildings and museums across the country for a weekend. This includes many buildings not usually granting public access including the Elysee Palace (home of the French President). Established back in 1984 these days are known as the Journées de Patrimonie. One of the places opened during my visit was the Arc de Triomphe. The elevators were not available (a discreet Parisian crowd control device perhaps) - but not to be denied the views from atop the arch I climbed it’s narrow winding spiral steps – all 280, I counted - to once again get my bearings and the layout of the city. 

From the arch, being the centre point of Baron George-Eugene Haussman’s Etoile one can appreciate the effect that his approach to urban planning has on the daily lives of Parisians. I can think of no other world city where the consideration given to the effect of new developments on the old is as carefully thought out as in Paris so as to preserve the aspects built before. Hausmann’s boulevards are the foundation of a rational city extending far beyond the old city limits. 

In this first view I was looking back along the Ave de la Grande Armée to the Grande Arch of La Défense. This avenue together with the Champs Elysées forms the main line of Paris' incredible Axe Historique (explained in an earlier posting). The trees of the Bois de Boulogne can be clearly seen at the left of view. It is in this area that the Roland Garros stadium, the site of the renowned annual French Tennis Open tournament is found. (And it is through watching this magnificent annual event on television that I am aware of the very changeable nature of Parisian weather).
The préfecture of La Défense with its skyscrapers, so thoughtfully allowed only outside of the greater city limits (la Tour Montparnasse being the one notable exception) dominates the skyline, the Grand Arche is seen at almost picture centre.

Paris - Gustave Eiffel - 7me

Plate LXVI - Gustave Eiffel…

Beneath the tower bearing his name is a gilded bust of the engineer Gustave Eiffel. As you stand in line to buy a ticket to ascend his masterpiece you can almost feel his gaze upon you. Not a modest man by all accounts, his slight smile seems to have an air of vindication – for the tower’s construction was not without its opponents. Forgotten too is the blame laid on Eiffel for the disaster of the Panama Canal that was to later somewhat tarnish his image.

A master of construction in metal, Eiffel was first noted for his design of bridges, initially the trussed girder railway bridges in Vichy, and his later span bridges. There are notably those in Bordeaux; the Pia Maria Bridge in Oporto in Portugal; and the 160 metre arched bridge - the Garabit Viaduct over the Truyère River near Saint-Flour in southern France, for many years the highest in the world. It was notably with his bridge design at Rouzat that Eiffel heightened his understanding of wind forces, and the design of curved towers to achieve lateral stiffness - so essential an element in the design of his tower.

It was Eiffel’s expertise that was called on to design the internal supporting structure and framework of the Statue of Liberty.

No wonder Eiffel has been dubbed ‘the magician of iron’.

Paris - Hôtel des Invalides - 7me

Plate LV - Hotel des Invalides, the Army Museum…

I have for some reason always associated Les Invalides with Napoleon and it is here that many relics of Napoleon’s life can be viewed, including many of his uniforms and personal arms, his deathbed and funeral mask - even the stuffed remains of one of his horses.

But, Les Invalides was first instituted by that philanthropic king, Louis XIV as a home for his disabled war veterans, and still today a part of the hôtel still serves its original purpose. It also now includes a modern military hospital.

Admittedly this is not my brightest shot; I was hurried away from my photo position by an oncoming bridal car, as a wedding procession entered the courtyard.

Many of the complex’s buildings now house displays of the Army Museum of Paris - the museum having been originally established in 1871 as one dedicated to artillerie (meaning weaponry). The collections of the, then separate, Historical Army Museum created in 1896 were merged with those of the artillerie in 1905, forming the core of today’s displayed collections - without question the richest in content in the world.

There are some half a million items in the collection and a tour of the permanent displays (allow yourself a good few hours) takes the visitor through chronological collections down the centuries.  

It is a must for boys - of all ages