Paris - Bois de Vincennes - 19e

Plate XCVIII – Bois de Vincennes …

If you have left wondering what all the fuss is about with the Bois de Boulogne try a visit to the Bois de Vincennes. I found the area so much more rewarding. An unpopulated space of public land, the Bois de Vincennes was originally a hunting ground for the royal courts, and kings of France. It became a public park under Napoleon III in 1860. The proclaimed area is some 2,458 acres, three times larger than New York’s Central Park and four times the extent of London’s Hyde Park. Officially part of the greater city of Paris since 1929, I was here mainly to visit the adjoining Chateau (closed to the public at the time) and the more formal Parc Floral de Paris, a landscaped park within the precincts of the Bois de Vincennes. I obviously could not cover its full magnitude, but the parts I saw were quite enchanting, a taste of provincial countryside within the city. With long time military connections, you will still find the Redoute de Gravelle in the southwest part, and the Bois de Vincennes is also home to a zoological garden, along with a number of sporting venues and institutes. Fed by the River Marne four large lakes are also situated within the area.

What I remember best however are the butterflies. I could be wrong in my identification, but I’m sure I saw a population of (at least close relatives of) the familiar (to me) orange, black and white African Monarch species. Their fluttering amongst predominantly orange flowers was a magical sight. I was later to learn that there is an annual summer event (May to October) in the Jardin des Papillons, a greenhouse inside the Parc Floral displaying some forty lepidopterous varieties, endemic to the Ile de France.

Paris - The Arc de Triomphe View 1 - 8me

Plate LXIX - Ave de la Grande Armee …

At the end of September each year France celebrates its heritage by freely opening the doors to hundreds of buildings and museums across the country for a weekend. This includes many buildings not usually granting public access including the Elysee Palace (home of the French President). Established back in 1984 these days are known as the Journées de Patrimonie. One of the places opened during my visit was the Arc de Triomphe. The elevators were not available (a discreet Parisian crowd control device perhaps) - but not to be denied the views from atop the arch I climbed it’s narrow winding spiral steps – all 280, I counted - to once again get my bearings and the layout of the city. 

From the arch, being the centre point of Baron George-Eugene Haussman’s Etoile one can appreciate the effect that his approach to urban planning has on the daily lives of Parisians. I can think of no other world city where the consideration given to the effect of new developments on the old is as carefully thought out as in Paris so as to preserve the aspects built before. Hausmann’s boulevards are the foundation of a rational city extending far beyond the old city limits. 

In this first view I was looking back along the Ave de la Grande Armée to the Grande Arch of La Défense. This avenue together with the Champs Elysées forms the main line of Paris' incredible Axe Historique (explained in an earlier posting). The trees of the Bois de Boulogne can be clearly seen at the left of view. It is in this area that the Roland Garros stadium, the site of the renowned annual French Tennis Open tournament is found. (And it is through watching this magnificent annual event on television that I am aware of the very changeable nature of Parisian weather).
The préfecture of La Défense with its skyscrapers, so thoughtfully allowed only outside of the greater city limits (la Tour Montparnasse being the one notable exception) dominates the skyline, the Grand Arche is seen at almost picture centre.