Paris - Clignancourt - 18e

Plate XCV - Clignancourt - Flea Market …

Somehow ‘flea market’ does not do justice as a translation for ‘le Marché aux Puces de la Porte de St-Ouen’. It also does not convey any sense of the incredible sense of impending discovery of treasure that I felt immediately on arrival in the environs of the Porte de Clignancourt. Leaving my hotel on the Metro in the fairly early morning, I had shared a compartment with a number of women who looked remarkably like extras from the set of Irma la Douce. Not something unexpected as these nocturnal working inhabitants of the area returned from what I guessed had been another night ‘sous les ponts de Paris’. The Marché aux Puces (which some claim gave all ‘flea markets’ their name) is actually a number of adjoining markets, and typical of such trading places you will find everything from absolute rubbish to some of the most beautiful antiques imaginable. Of course the high end stuff is better displayed (and better guaranteed) in the Rue de Rivoli at the Louvre des Antiquaires, but there you know you’re going to pay top dollar, and the chances of unearthing an undervalued bargain are less than zero. In Clignancourt I browsed amongst vintage (and not so vintage) car parts and hardware, through clothing, music stalls and ultimately moved on to the antique dealers, where Lalique and Daume vases competed to catch the eye with elaborate crystal chandeliers, and that uniquely continental-European fourteen carat gold jewellery. It was here that a London based friend of mine began a lifelong infatuation with antique Toiles de Jouy, trade in which eventually became his business. Intimidated as I was by the sheer numbers of traders’ stalls and their volumes of merchandise I browsed for hours, determined not to buy anything until I had a good idea of all that was available. I landed up leaving empty handed but determined to return.

I know my weaknesses - I never did.