Paris - Opéra Garnier - 9me

Plate LXXXI – Opera Garnier…

Is there a phantom of the Opéra?

Built on notably swampy ground, above an underground lake which requires pumping some eight months of the year (yes there really is one) the site of the Paris Opéra lends itself to Gothic tales of mystical creatures and ghosts. Add the belle époque splendour, the sumptuous velvet and gilded decoration of the Charles Garnier masterpiece and you have everything needed for the location of Gaston Leroux’s spellbinding Victorian tale of the Phantom of the Opera. The subject of no less than five international film versions and of course Andrew Lloyd-Webber’s long running musical opus (but not its newer sequel), the performance arts have ensured that Garnier’s construction is familiar, at least in name, to  almost everyone.

Officially named the Académie Nationale de Musique – Théâtre de l’Opéra, at its inauguration in 1875 this was changed in 1978 to the Théâtre National de l’Opéra  de Paris. But to most it is simply the Opéra or Palais Garnier. It was designed as part of Napoleon III and Haussmann’s city reconstruction, the plan submitted by architect Charles Garnier in open competition in 1860. It remains Garnier’s grandest work, and is the inspiration of many copies and imitations around the world. Plagued with problems over the course of construction between 1861 and late 1874, the 2,200 seat 11,000 square metre opera house was formally opened in January 1875 with lavish performances of scenes from popular ballet and operas. Decorated with extensive sculptural pieces and embellishments the building consumes them all into a glorious whole with the centrepiece of the interior the massive (and legendary) chandelier above the auditorium, surrounded by a Marc Chagall ceiling artwork completed in 1964 and controversially installed over the older existing piece.

The resident performing opera company relocated to the newer Opéra Bastille building on its completion, but when reference in Paris is made to the Opéra, this is the one implied.

It’s over now– the music of the night …

Paris - Opéra Bastille - 4me

Plate XL - Opera Bastille…

My favourite performance of music by the often sombre German composer Wagner is conducted by a Frenchman. Listen to ‘Boulez Conducts Wagner’ and you’ll understand why.

France’s Théâtre National Populaire owes its continued existence mainly to one man - actor and director Jean Vilar.

Anyone who knows or cares about dance is familiar with the name Maurice Béjart and with his unique convergence of classical, jazz and modern choreography.

As you’ll shortly see there is a link between these three men of the arts.

On 14th July 1789 (commemorated in modern times as France’s national day), the notorious mediaeval Parisian fortress prison and symbol of repression known as the Bastille was stormed by a mob in the opening days of the Révolution. Famously, only a scant few prisoners were found to be incarcerated within its walls. For over a century the site of the destroyed Bastille was later occupied by a train station, built in 1859 and closed at the end of 1969.

On July 13th 1989 a new building was inaugurated on the site with a concert conducted by Georges Prêtre, and featuring Placido Domingo and Theresa Berganza. It was the Opéra Bastille, first proposed in a report submitted to French President Francois Mitterand in 1968 and promoted by Boulez, Béjart, and Vilar.

Finally built to a design by architect Carlos Ott, Opéra Bastille has since 1990 been home to the Théâtre Nationale de l'Opéra, formerly based in the better known Opéra Garnier (home to the legendary Phantom).  

During opera seasons the cultural juxtaposition found at this modern French centre for the performing arts, facing onto a nearby fast food outlet serving the 'take-away' feeding tourist hordes that frequent the city and crowd the opera steps to eat, creates an interesting mix of customers as patrons of the Opéra in evening finery sidestep the casually attired visitors.

Pommes frites, anyone?