Paris - Galeries Lafayette - Cuddlies - 9me

Plate LXXXIII - Cuddlies at Galeries Lafayette… 

I’d like to sound knowledgeable in French and say this was the pelucherie at Galeries Lafayette. But I think that was actually the name of a store stocking cuddly toys, found in an arcade off the Champs Elysées – so I’ll leave it as Cuddlies.

I was quite astounded at the range of Teddy Bears and other soft toys to be found in this section, and it is indicative of the vast extent of merchandise kept in the various departments at the Galeries. Sizes ranged from mini pocket versions to some almost life size, and included not just the traditional bears, but many members of the cat family, camels and birds - and a good representation of different dog breeds. Fancy a life-sized Rotweiller?

This is probably an appropriate time to mention the often quoted ‘fact’ that the dog population of Paris is said to be greater than that of its children. I’m not sure how true this is, I certainly noticed no shortage of younger generation humans, but it was also very evident that Parisians do like their canine companions and it is not uncommon to see them accompanying their owners on the Metro trains and in restaurants. I had been warned by friends (inexplicably they’re not fans of the city) to watch where treading when walking around Paris as it would be a rare day when you’d return to the hotel without having to do at least one shoe cleaning session to remove the ubiquitous doggy doo from the soles of your shoes. I simply did not find this so. But perhaps being a dog lover the dog-gods take care of their own!!

As an owner of the breed I was tempted here by a very lifelike velvety Rotweiller, but remembering I had limits on my luggage, I left him with the rest of his pack for another future owner – who knows - maybe even a rare Parisian child ;-)….

And will some let me know – is this officially known as a pelucherie?

Paris - Boutiques - Champs Elysées - 8me

Plate LXXIV – Magazine Boutiques – Champs Elysees

Eager to soak up and appreciate the history of the city I was immediately taken by the well preserved state of the many cast iron magazine boutiques lining the paved boulevard sidewalks of the Champs Elysées. Surely of late nineteenth or early twentieth century design, each seemed to have been given a thorough sandblasting and fresh coat of paint. With many sections of its two kilometre stretch having become somewhat tawdry and run down over the nineteen-eighties, Paris had embarked on a massive refresh and renovation of its famous avenue. Vehicle parking had been banned, and pedestrian life was thriving, along with café society (Maison Alsace becoming a personal favourite stop). The project almost complete at the time of my visit, I was amazed to find out that these boutique shelters were a brand new addition to the city.

Having come to appreciate the offerings of Paris Match* during my student years, for the duration of my visit I would stop at the kiosk nearest the Arc de Triomphe to buy each week’s edition. Who would ever want to miss such salacious images and stories as Prince Charles Nu – ou Presque (which was the promise of one of the then current editions)?

(* a kind of French Hello or OK magazine - for the uninitiated)

Paris – Champs Elysées - 8me

Plate LXXI1I – Champs Elysees

The most famous street in the world? Perhaps.

The Elysian Fields - what a name to live up to. From Elysium in Greek mythology it is the place where humans, offered immortality by the gods were sent. A place where perfect happiness was attained on the banks of the Oceanus River. Well let’s settle for the Seine, and walking down this avenue or settling into a chair in one of the boulevard cafes, my feeling of happiness was as close to perfect as I’ve known.

With rentals reputed to be set at around ten thousand euros per square metre it certainly has the most expensive real estate in all of Europe. Although many international names have opened retail operations along the avenue, and cinemas showing the latest international releases are to be found, it remains essentially French - and très, très chic. Part of the historical axis of the city the avenue, usually referred to simply as the Champs Elysées, runs almost 2 kilometres from the Place de la Concorde in the east to the Place Charles de Gaulle (Étoile) and the Arc de Triomphe to the west, offering upmarket shopping and famous entertainments such as the Bluebell Girls of the Lido, and the picture perfect beaux art decorated tearoom of the Lido Arcade.

The scene of many military processions, it was along the Champs Elysées that the Germans infamously marched in grand display of their occupation of France in June 1940, and it was here too that the French and American troops led by General Charles de Gaulle victoriously celebrated the liberation of the city in August 1944. The annual Bastille Day Parade is held here each 14th July, and the world famous Tour de France cycle race sees its final stage along the avenue. Most occasions of any national significance will be celebrated by a gathering here, with visiting international dignitaries being welcomed by bunting and flags in their national colours alongside the tricolore decorating the staffs along the way.

As Maurice Chevalier used to sing ... Ah! Champs Elysées, Champs Elysées …

Paris - Mort pour la Patrie - 7me

Plate LXIX - Mort pour La Patrie…

ICI REPOSE UN SOLDAT FRANCAIS MORT POUR LA PATRIE 1914-1918

Every evening at six thirty the eternal flame, first lit by war minister Maginot on Armistice Day, November 11, 1923, is rekindled beneath the Arc de Triomphe on the Champs Elysées by veterans belonging to the Committee of the Flame. Wreaths in the national colours are laid and respect is paid to the deceased heroes of past conflicts.

There is no question that the Parisians are a patriotic people. Signs and remembrances of national events, wars and victories, heroes and heroines abound throughout the city.

On November 10, 1920 Auguste Thien selected the sixth of eight unmarked identical coffins, each bearing the remains of an unknown French soldier killed during the Great War of 1914-18. On January 21, 1921 the Unknown French Soldier was laid to rest in this place of honour.

My late grandfather was a surviving soldier of the allied forces of that First Great War. Standing before his unknown comrade, I remembered him.

(One of my all time personal favourite images)

Paris - Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel - 1er

Plate IX - Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel

I am constantly surprised by how few first time visitors to Paris are aware that there are two Napoleonic triumphal arches in the city. I have overheard travelers commenting on how little the Arc de Triomphe is when viewing this, the smallest of the three arches along the historical axis. I have taken some delight in pointing along the Champs Elysées to the ‘real’ Arc de Triomphe, which at over twice the size of this one, I can assure them will meet their size expectations!!!

What I cannot assure them of is that the more famous Arc de Triomphe up the road can match this one in sheer beauty. Surrounding the exterior of the Carrousel Arch are eight granite Corinthian columns mounted by soldiers of the Napoleonic Empire. Reputedly modeled on the Roman Constantine Arch, the Carrousel Arch was completed in 1808 and was designed by Charles Percier and Pierre Léonard Fontaine. Decorative bas-relief friezes are carved in rose marble, and the work on the interior of the arches is breathtaking. Prior to their return to Venice in 1815 the arch was surmounted by the horses of Saint Mark’s Cathedral (a Napoleonic conquest). These were replaced by a Francois Joseph Bosio sculpture of  a chariot-riding Peace led on either side by golden Victories. Ironically the piece recognises the fall of Napoleon, and the brief restoration of the monarchy.